Brudet

Brudet

Brudet (brujet, brodet) je najčasteším rybacím jedlom na chorvátskom Jadrane, obzvlášť obľúbené je však v Dalmácii. V zadarskej, šibenickej a splitskej oblasti sa kuchárske majstrovstvo stanovuje práve umením prípravy brudetu. Mágia dobrého brudetu sa skráva v skutočnosti, že aj tie druhy rýb, ktoré nemajú samy o sebe najlepšiu povesť, ukazujú v harmónii brudetu svoje neoačakávané kvality.

 

Kritérium rybárskeho brudetu je veľmi praktické: ide doň každá ryba, ktorá sa uloví. Variácie brudetu je takmer nemožné vypočítať. Základom receptu je cibuľa, opražená na olivovom oleji, pridajú sa k nej menšie celé ryby, alebo kúsky väčších rýb a zelenina, korenie, aromatické bylinka, víno, prošek, ocot, a dokonca aj trochu morskej vody. Viac druhov rýb je predpokladom dobrého brudetu, a pre konečný výsledok môže byť kľúčové poradie, ktorým sa jednotlivé ryby, vzhľadom na svoju textúru a konzistenciu, do jedla pridávajú.

 

Mnohí kuchári pridávajú pre chuť do brudetu aj nejakého toho raka alebo mušľu. Na Zlarine býval v minulosti známou delikatesou brudet z homára. Skradinský brudet sa pripravuje z úhorov. Najbizarnejším brudetom je určite brudet menom falši: pripravuje sa bez rýb, rakov, mušlí či mäkkýšov. Namiesto nich sa do brudetu okrem zeleniny a korenín pridá kameň vytiahnutý z mora!

Brudet, brujet, brodet or, if you will, brodetto, is the most common dish on the Croatian Adriatic, but it is especially loved throughout Dalmatia. In the Zadar, Šibenik and Split clusters culinary skills are measured against one’s ability to excel in the preparation of brudet. The magic of a good brudet is that it makes the types of fish normally regarded as nothing special reveal their hidden, unexpected qualities when combined with others in a finely balanced blend.

The criterion of a fisherman’s brudet is the most practical one: it is made from the fish caught on the day, or night. It is difficult, indeed practically impossible, to list all the variations of this dish. The basis of the recipe is onion fried in olive oil, to which small fish are added whole, while larger ones are cut into pieces, followed by vegetables, spices, herbs, wine, prosecco, wine vinegar, and even sea water. The key condition for a good brudet is that it is made of several types of fish. The sequence in which individual types of fish are added is also important; indeed, bearing in mind the texture of their meat it can be crucial to the final result, i.e. its flavour.

In order to improve the flavour still further, many cooks like to add an occasional crab, or at least some shellfish. In the past the island of Zlarin was famous for its lobster brudet; in Skradin it is made from eels. Undoubtedly, though, the most curious is the brudet known as falši, which contains no fish, no crabs and no shellfish – only vegetables and spices, and a stone taken from the sea!